THE HISTORY
The story of this cheese starts in 2003, when we started to look at where our milk was coming from in order to produce our Italian Style Hard Cheese Twineham Grange Farmers' Hand. At that time, all of our milk was purchased through the local milk cooperative Milk Link, but the actual source of this milk was a closely guarded secret, so we could never be sure of its traceability. In 2003, it was noticeable that many local dairy farmers were leaving the industry and we felt we needed to act fast in an attempt to secure our milk supply.
Following a meeting with our local Milk Link account manager, it was agreed that we would continue to source our milk through them, but with the condition that it came from a single supplier. We looked at the milk profile of many local farmers; we were looking for "clean milk", with a high protein and butterfat content, preferably from a farm which did not use excessive concentrates, etc. It soon became apparent that there was only one candidate to meet these criteria, namely R.Harrison & Sons from Rudgwick, West Sussex.
After taking their milk for a number of months, we invited the Harrisons to the creamery to show them our cheese production. The number of vehicles that arrived on that morning was astonishing! It seemed that the whole of Rudgwick had turned up, with most members of the family and staff coming to see what we did with their milk. We had shown many people around the creamery before, but this was the most enjoyable tour we had conducted to date, given their sheer enthusiasm to learn what we were doing with their milk. It somehow gave them a sense of ownership to see their white commodity transformed into a finished product, not least a cheese that had won many awards at both a national and international level.
For us, too, as cheesemakers, this meeting was highly significant. The quality of a cheese naturally relies to a great extent on the quality of milk from which it is made. Consequently, enjoying a good relationship with the producer of that milk is of paramount importance. For the Harrisons' part, they were no longer simply producing a commodity that disappeared off in a milk tanker every day; they were now able to point to our cheese on a shelf in their local shop and proudly say "They use our milk to make that cheese".
You can now see a video documentary about Sussex Charmer at http://www.wscountytimes.co.uk/business-news/Charming-cheese.3479481.jp
THE EARLY DAYS
Over the months that followed, we continued to build our relationship with the Harrisons, getting to know their extensive family; although to be honest, even now, just when I think I have met them all, I am introduced to yet another family member! Subsequently, we started to discuss the possibility of setting up a joint venture, one that would produce a new cheese, although the exact nature of this cheese was as yet unclear.
Up to this point, our experience of cheese-making had been limited to the production of a Parmesan style cheese, which differs considerably in its production methods from those of most other cheeses. The Harrisons' experience obviously did not extend beyond the boundaries of milk production. Hence, it was decided that we all attend a three-day residential, cheese-making course, with Tim and Charles Harrison accompanying our cheesemaker and myself.
The course proved to be invaluable, because in addition to the technical knowledge that we attained, we also had the chance to focus our ideas on our new project, without the normal distractions of our busy work environments. So it was then, that we began to hatch the idea of producing a cheese that was totally unique from any other. Indeed, I had thought for quite some time that there was a potential market for a cheese that lay somewhere between a Cheddar and a Parmesan. After much thought, the name Sussex Charmer was devised, combining the ‘ch' from cheddar with the ‘arm' of parmesan and we started to conduct trials for our newly invented recipe.
We proceeded to set up a new company, under the name of Bookham Harrison Farms Ltd, putting Sussex Charmer under joint ownership of R.Harrison and Sons and Bookhams. To my mind, this act represents a crucial step in the production of Local Food. Following the outbreak of Foot and Mouth a few years ago, the government commissioned Curry Report concluded that there was a need for stronger links between primary producer and consumer. At Bookhams, we have always been committed to the idea of forging links with primary producers, and are convinced that this project is far stronger and more likely to succeed long-term as a result of this joint venture.
Milk arriving from Pallinghurst Farm
THE FIRST PRODUCTION
Producing a new type of cheese is both exciting and challenging, especially if you are embarking on a mature cheese that has never been made before. There are many factors involved in the cheese-making process and altering any one of these factors is enough to affect the finished product.
Within three weeks of attending the cheese-making course and armed with a recipe that we had devised by employing a combination of Parmesan and Cheddar production techniques, we set about creating our new cheese.
We learnt a lot from our first makes and most of the early batches went wrong for one reason or another. However, we recorded copious details on the making of each batch and started to gain a better understanding of what did and did not work. Subsequently, we replaced the plastic buckets that we had adapted into cheese moulds, investing in proper stainless steel cheese moulds. We also replaced the lorry jack with a proper cheese press.
Over the months that followed, we continued to tweak the recipe and boldly entered Sussex Charmer into its first cheese competition, becoming a finalist in the 2007 Tesco Cheese Challenge.
Sussex Charmer in Production
THE SHAPE OF THINGS TO COME
Not content with just making a new type of cheese, we also wanted our cheese to look different from the rest. So Tim and I set about studying other cheeses on the market, to see how we could do things differently. After visiting various cheese shows around the country, we noticed that nobody seemed to be cutting their cheeses into a cubed shape, so we decided to create our very own ‘cube'. This was not as easy as first imagined and we soon realised why nobody else was doing it! We persevered however, and with the exception of a larger picnic format later designed specially for the Goodwood Revival, Sussex Charmer was at last presented in a traditionally wrapped, 200g cube. In addition to its unusual shape, we created a beautiful, black presentation box for those special occasions.
THE TASTE PROFILE
Sussex Charmer is matured for 12 months and truly combines the characteristics of cheddar and Parmesan, presenting the initial creaminess of a full-bodied cheddar, followed by a definite parmesan zing! Its longer taste profile consequently holds its flavour well against pickles and other condiments, thereby making it the ideal cheese for a ploughman's, whilst at the same time excellent with apples, pears, a glass of wine or even fruitcake. It grates well and because unlike Parmesan, Sussex Charmer is made from full fat milk, it possesses superb meltability. Try it over pasta, soups and risottos, or alternatively as good old cheese on toast, with a dash of Worcestershire sauce. Or why not give your cheese sauce a new lease of life - we suspect your trusty recipe will be changed for the better.
SHELF LIFE
This cheese is flow wrapped and has a paper ribbon applied by hand to ensure a traditional look, whilst guaranteeing a shelf life of 90 days from date of packing. Once opened, it is best stored in greaseproof paper, inside an airtight container in your fridge, where it will last a further 4 weeks. It may also be frozen.
Mixed Breed Herd at Pallinghurst Farm, West Sussex
THE COWS
The cows that provide us with the top quality milk used to create Sussex Charmer are from Pallinghurst Farm in Rudgwick, West Sussex. This grass fed, mixed breed herd produces exceptionally high levels of butterfat (4.7%) and Protein (3.7%). They are a mix of Holstein and Jersey and can be found grazing the fields either side of the A281 between Horsham and Guildford, on the Sussex Surrey border.
This unique mix of breed helps to give the cheese its depth of flavour. The welfare of the cows is of paramount priority to the Harrisons, who milk over 1,000 head between their three farms in Rudgwick. Each farm has been independently audited and certified Welfare Assured.
Over the past few years throughout the UK, we have been losing dairy farms at an alarming rate and this reduction has been especially noticeable in the South East of England. Every single piece of Sussex Charmer has been made from milk produced by the cows in Rudgwick, so each time you purchase a piece of the cheese, you are helping to ensure that cows continue to graze the fields of Sussex for years to come. Now doesn't that feel good?
Rob Bookham, Jim Harrison and Tim Harrison with the Nantwich Trophy
SUSSEX CHARMER PICKS UP TOP AWARD
We are delighted and honoured to announce that Sussex Charmer won Best New Dairy Product at the Nantwich International Cheese Awards for 2008. This represents an amazing achievement, since the Nantwich Cheese Awards are now recognised as being the largest in the world, thereby attracting entrants from among the bigger players on the international cheese scene. In order to use this award to promote sales of our cheese, we have designed a number of humorous shelf talkers, which are available on request.
FORMAT OF THE CHEESE
|
|
Unit size |
No. per Case |
Min. Shelf life |
Bar Code |
|
Sussex Charmer Cube |
200g |
12 |
60 days |
5060071546017 |
|
Sussex Charmer Cube |
200g |
24 |
60 days |
5060071546017 |
|
Sussex Charmer Block |
500g |
6 |
60 days |
5060071546024 |
|
Sussex Charmer Block |
2.5kg |
4 |
60 days |
5060071546031 |
|
Sussex Charmer Grated |
2kg |
5 |
45 days |
5060071546062 |
If you require any further details, please do not hesitate in contacting Rob Bookham or Michelle Blackwell by email: This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it or telephone 01323 636110
We are very happy to support this cheese by offering samples for in-store tastings and point of sale material, including shelf-talkers and posters. Please let us know if we can be of assistance.